Nairobi

Kenya's capital is cosmopolitan, lively, interesting, pleasantly landscaped and a good place to get essential business matters sewn up. You can walk from one end of the central business district to the other in 20 minutes and it's a great place to tune into modern urban African life. Unfortunately, it's also a great place to get mugged. Security, especially at night, is a definite concern and many travellers hate the place because of it. It's not known as 'Nairobbery' by residents for nothing.

Nairobi sprang up with the building of the Mombasa to Uganda railway. Originally little more than a swampy watering hole for Maasai tribes, it had became a substantial town by 1900. Five years later it succeeded Mombasa as the capital of the British protectorate. While today it's the largest city between Cairo and Johannesburg, its population of 1.5 million is skimpy by world standards.

Like most cities, Nairobi has its crowded market and trading areas, its middle class/office workers' suburbs and its spacious mansions and flower-decked gardens for the rich and powerful. The first is an area full of energy, aspirations and opportunism where manual workers, exhausted matatu (minibus) drivers, the unemployed, the devious, the down-and out and the disoriented mingle with budget travellers, whores, shopkeepers, high-school students, food vendors, drowsy security guards and those with life's little illicit goodies for sale. Centrally located, it's called River Rd and even if you're not staying in the area it's worth a look. Most travelers favor central Nairobi as a place to stay and dine, but finding a good hotel on a quiet street can be tricky.

For sightseeing, the National Museum, Snake Museum and National Archives are all interesting and easy to get to. The latter contains far more than the usual dry documents, including painting and handcrafts exhibitions. Just outside the metropolis is the country's most accessible natural wonder, Nairobi National Park. If you have kids with you, the neighbouring Ostrich Park makes an entertaining day trip.

Mombasa

The largest port on the coast of East Africa, Mombasa is hot, steamy and historical. Its earliest history dates back to the 12th century. A Muslim haven for centuries, it was attacked by the Portuguese in 1505 and burnt to the ground. It was quickly rebuilt only to be reduced to rubble again by an embattled Mombasan ruler during the long fight against the Portuguese. Mombasa's Old Town is testament to this tumultuous era. Filled with ornate wooden shopfronts and balconies, it's a constant source of delight for the observant wanderer. The old quarter's most prominent attraction is Fort Jesus, which dominates the harbour entrance. Begun in 1593 by the Portuguese, it changed hands nine times between 1631 and 1875. Now a museum, the fort is a fascinating mixture of Italian, Portuguese and
Arabic design.

Mombasa proper sprawls over Mombasa Island which is connected to the mainland both north and south of the city. The railway station is in the middle of the island, close to plenty of good hotels, restaurants and entertainment spots. A string of great beaches dominates the coast just south of the town. There are heaps of daily flights, trains and buses between Mombasa and Nairobi. There are also regular buses and ferries running between Mombasa and Tanzania.